Category Archives: Reports

Bits & Pieces – Cam Cosford

Club Meeting: 10 February 2016
Report by: David Jones

Cam is well known for gluing things together so you can’t see the join, as well as using different coloured woods to provide both contrast and symmetry for his segmented turning. For most of us this is a particularly difficult operation, which generally ends in frustrated disappointment and often a decision that we cannot get the accuracy required so it is not worth it. Also we don’t have the equipment to do it properly and can’t afford to buy it. Cam stressed that it doesn’t require really expensive machinery, but complete accuracy to within a millimeter is needed. To achieve this he has modified his old bench and drop saws to insure very accurate cutting.

With his old bench saw he had made a new bench top from meltica, which fitted over the old top and was clamped to it, with the sawblade lowered below the original bench top. He had then turned on the saw and raised the blade up through the new top so the new hole that the blade ran in was only minimally wider than the blade itself. Cam also stressed the need to have a good quality , sharp combination blade that would cut well for a good length of time. He recommended getting it from a good saw doctor.


He would then get a piece of wood with a perfectly straight edge to act as a guide. This needed to be as long as practicable to ensure the wood being cut always ran parallel to the blade. This guide would be clamped to the bench top parallel to the saw blade exactly the width of the required cut. The blade would be lowered to just a few millimeters above the height of the wood to be cut, as this would give the cleanest cut. The wood being cut needed to be pushed through the saw at a steady rate without stopping. Using this method Cam was able to cut pieces on his old bench saw which were consistently the same width along their length and could be as thin as 3-4mm allowing him to cut the narrow bit of dark wood which he glued between the other pieces of wood to hide the joins. The cut was so clean that the pieces could be glued together without the need to further sanding. If sanding was required to make the gluing surface perfectly flat then it was done on a perfectly flat piece of corian bench top that had sandpaper glued to it.

Cam uses an aliphatic pva glue (tightbond) to do his gluing and when gluing, clamps the wood both horizontally, and vertically to ensure a tight bond and no warping.


To cut angles in the wood to make wedges (say for a clock) Cam uses a drop saw. Once again, unless the saw is very expensive it is necessary to modify it, by removing the fence at the back and clamping a flat meltica bench top over it. The saw is then brought down and a cut made along the saw travel length. Once this has been done a straight edged backing board can be secured to the new table top exactly at right angles to the saw cut using as big a triangle as possible. Other angles for cutting can then be marked with a sawcut to ensure maximum accuracy.

When cutting the wood into wedges the wood can either be clamped or Cam uses the back-board and a nail in the bench to accurately place the piece of wood to be cut. In either case before cutting the saw is pulled out so the cut is made from the side nearest the operator back towards the backing board on the bench, and the saw is not lifted out until the blade has stopped turning. When cutting wedges from a large length of joined woods it is important to label each piece to ensure that when gluing them together that one piece is joined to the correct next piece so the grain flows evenly around the finished article.

The process of joining segments for a round clock with 12 segments is to firstly join the 2 appropriate segments to each other with a third narrow dark piece of wood in between. Cam had a gig for this that enabled him to glue several sets of 2 at the same time. Once the glue had set the double sets were glued together with a dark strip between to form sets of 4. Then 3 of these sets were glued together with strips to form the completed clock circle.


Apart from making wooden objects more colorful and striking, the real advantage of this system of accurate cutting and gluing was the ability to build and turn much larger pieces than would normally be possible because of the difficulty and cost of getting really large single pieces of wood without significant imperfections.

The demonstration was very interesting and useful and showed what can be done with good preparation and how easy it can be to modify equipment to ensure that its operation will be accurate and consistent. Cam made it look very easy, but I’m sure that his 55 years as a cabinet maker helped.

Thanks very much Cam.

Multi Woods, “I’ll dream up something” – Terry Scott

Club Meeting: 3 Feb 2016
Author of Article: Wim Nijmeijer

Terry woke up in the middle of the night, thinking about this demonstration!

The following morning he started the preparation and found that the blades on his thicknesser were blunt. He sharpened the blades and then proceeded to fit the blades in the setting blocks and managed to strip the threads in the process! Not a good start, but as luck would have it, Cam Cosford happened to be on hand at the right time and “offered” to prepare the blanks for the demo. Terry supplied the wood, however it was not clear what happened to the (supplied?) ebony, as it was never used in the blanks!

The blanks were made up using Teak, Bubinga and Wenge, cut with a drop saw and bonded together using Titebond PVA glue.


The first blank (outside of bowl and spigot already roughed out) was mounted on the lathe, using a screw chuck. Terry then proceeded by finishing the outside of the bowl, using a 10mm fingernail grind chisel. Turning speed approx. 1800rpm and slow travel of the chisel in order to get a smooth surface. Finally a skew chisel was used as a scraper to finish the outside. The use of a glue stick was explained for checking the outside curve of the bowl for any irregularities.
Adding 2 beads finished the foot of the bowl, and a recess was added for the insertion of a coin. (As an example.)

Power sanding (not fully demonstrated) followed using a 3″ dia mandrel.

Terry then progressed by turning a series of beads using a bead forming tool, followed by light sanding and then applied sanding sealer to the outside of the bowl. The bowl was then removed from the lathe.


The inside of the bowl will be hollowed out at a later stage, however 2 small holes (approx. 3mm) were drilled and copper nails inserted, and also some holes for a Paua insert, just to demonstrate various means of embellishments.

The second blank (similar to the first) was then attached to the lathe, using a screw chuck. A spigot was turned (48mm dia) plus a larger “bead” for forming 3 small feet at a later stage. The final outside shape was then completed. As this was going to be a lidded box, a section for the lid was parted off using a 3mm parting tool and a hand saw for the final part. (Note that the screw chuck was still in place for later remounting of the lid)

The bottom of the box was then reverse mounted. Next the edge of the box was shaped, and a “lip” turned to locate the lid at a later stage.

The inside of the box was then completed by using a 55degree bowl gouge, followed by using a negative rake scraper presented flat on the tool rest and rotated to follow the inner contour. The box was then reverse mounted in the tailstock.

The lid was then remounted in the headstock, and a rebate was turned to match the lip of the box. Next the box was butted up against the lid so that the circumference of the box and the lid could be turned and finished as an assembly.

It was noted that the laminations lined up nicely since only a 3mm parting tool was used.

A further bead was then applied to the box, and the inside of the lid was then finished and embellished using Terry’s ten-dollar tool.
Next the box was remounted in the headstock, and the lid was “jam chucked” onto it. With the tailstock in place the outside of the lid could now be completed.


More beads and knurling added further embellishment to the lid.

Terry mounted some African Blackwood and proceeded to turn a knob and a small spigot to locate the knob to the lid.
The size of the small spigot was marked on the lid by holding the center of the lid (screw chuck hole) against the rotating spigot of the knob. This left a visible mark on the lid, identifying the size of the spigot!) A good trick to quickly establish the required size of the hole for the spigot)

Finally the box was remounted again and the lid was taped to the box for security. The hole was opened up to accept the spigot of the knob. The knob was then offered up to the lid and its final shape completed.

All in all a very interesting demo with plenty of little tricks to remember, including the expert tool control and execution.
Thank you Terry for the demo.
Also a thank you to Cam, for the preparation of the segmented blanks.

A Journey to 3D Printing – Ian Connelly

Club Meeting: 21 October 2015
Report by: Graeme Mackay

Great Scott, it’s back to the future day, Ian is leading us on a long technical path from the home origins of 3D printing through to the current future. Ian feels he is in the midpoint of a long journey started in the mid-1990s. 3D printing is an exciting IT and technical movement.  Although much is held under various patents, there is still a future going forward for this medium as many of the patents are expiring.


There are many small 3D printing units available on the general retail market.  Companies such as Noel Leeming offering a $2000 unit in recent times. Ian looked at the course and said “I am going to do this myself”. He went to the net, that is the Internet, and started getting the bits to put together to make a 3-D printer. Ian used his CNC software skills to get going and joined it up with his vast knowledge of 3D CAD. A skill that started developing back in the mid-1990s and has been able to be kept on through due diligence, full application and perseverance of Woodturner.

The printing technologies have been here for a while and in various forms; extrusion printing, sintering printing and liquid polymer at the high end. So Ian headed out into the ionosphere of the blog set, open source joydem and special blogs (  Ian provided views of the earlier iterations of this printer. The one on display (see photo) fits into space 400mm x 400 mm x 250 mm. He made the observation that the smaller size printers are related to the size of the domestic doorway i.e. that is the amount that you can sneak through quickly before anyone sees aborted under the home.


The next but it is a demonstration walk the audience through the requirements and choices;

  • deciding on the plastic type (in his case ABS)
  • the need for the printer to have its own computer operation and drive
  • the ability to drive from high end ST cards
  • the drive for the vertical axis
  • the drive is required for the X and Y axis
  • the choices stepper motor
  • the heated pad system for the base
  • the software choices (and they were many)

Many the parts for operation were sourced from China and Taiwan with a nuts and bolts and framing coming from New Zealand the software choices were many and varied. Ian stated that it was to do was ones background skills ability and the whatever. This later to whatever covered CAD, slicing software, computer interface software is or printer firmware.

There were many trials and tribulations (although he did not mention many of the letter and detail). One of the challenges is getting to learn how to bond the layers and developed support structures to assist the printing. Examples of the printing support structures were available for view in all their complexity and provided an excellent example of the physical technical requirements to be worked out for this type of “simple” printing operation.

Ian’s explanation of the printing process and calculations were interesting to the point of mind-boggling. Solid old-fashioned direct calculation of the steps and direction is required to make a layer by layer printing workout.

A quick and simple list of some of the physical requirements to be completed provides excellent idea of the complexity of this very simple 3-D printing project:

  • the direction of the steps
  • printing and stop locations
  • steps per millimetre vertical
  • multiple steps or multiple steps (I’m not sure which)
  • steps to accommodate the type plastic  being used
  • steps and temperature to ensure bonding

The machinery moving the plastics extruder has to perform the correct steps and movement along the way and within the correct axis. The little example provided required 4800 steps per millimetre of height for the Z axis. The belt driven machinery for the horizontal X and Y axis required 100 moves per horizontal millimetre.


And then there’s a plastic extruder itself: an extensive technical subject with an item that has a hot in the cold end. Fan cooled to maintain the required temperature of the extrusion material. As always, in lead us up to further discussions of importance such as a grain of printed material, control of temperature in the printing zone, and a host of other things.

And the use the 3-D printed object; a replacement part to hold his daughter’s bicycle reflector.

Graeme Mackay

Mini Demos – Bruce Wiseman, Colin Wise

Club Meeting : 14 October 2015
Report by: Terry Scott

The evening started with informative information on projects the club supports –

  • Wig stands for Look Good Feel Better
  • Butterfly boxes for butterfly given to parents who have lost a child through cancer
  • Kidz First bowls

For those new to the club we had a run through of how the Papakura sale of woodturning works.

The evening was to be a montage of demos of items suitable for the  Sale but because of the interest about the above was cut a little short.

A Plain Pen – demo by Bruce Wiseman

  1. Start with a blank that is at least 190 long and 20 x 20mm. It is best to hold this in a 25mm chuck  but bring up a live centre for security . Or You  can hold it in the centre of a larger chuck, for this make the blank longer. Round it off.  Wind the speed up as this wood has a small diameter.
    Bruce showed an alternative of turning a dummy Mt2 on the blank; He said this made the repetition speed up as He didn’t have to take the chuck of between stages
  2. With the wood round, take the tailstock away. Use the dent made by the tailstock to start drilling a 3.5mm hole 130mm into the wood. Do this gently, withdrawing the drill after each 2 or 3 mm. Then drill a 4mm hole into the first 10mm of the wood. In soft wood the 3.5mm drill may have already made the start of the hole this large. Bruce held his drill bit in an old egg beater drill but said you can also make a wooden handle.
  3. Remove the  pin from a  4mm  rivet insert in the drilled hole and bring the tail up again.
    This prevents the timber splitting when the timber is turned to the small size need to mate up with the refill
    Now shape the pen barrel. Knobs, beads, coves, burn lines, endless possibilities.
    Bruce used the Piano wire trick to add 3 black lines
    Bruce said he enjoys making different shapes but prefers a bulge about a third of the way up
    Continue shaping and sanding until almost ready to part off at the headstock end. Apply the finish of your choice.
  4. Part off. Remove but don’t lose the pop rivet. Finish the parted off area. Insert a bic refill.
    A pen like this sells for $8 to $9 depending on the character of the wood and quality of finishThanks Bruce well done

A small bowl suitable for Kidz First – demo  by Colin Wise

As they say there are many ways to Skin a Cat
Because of the time frame Colin had come prepared with a blank with a spigot already turned on a 150mm cylinder blank
He said he normally finishes the foot which is turned to 47mm so that the 50mm jaws grip all the way around the spigot not leaving a mark,
He then proceeded to turn the back of the bowl from the headstock side ,a difficult task for many as this was turned up hill which would normally leave torn grain to die for .He had obviously perfected this  method as a smooth finished that would have need little if any sanding at all
Next He cut a grove at the rim with  a parting tool  3mm deep .This was so that the bevel had a shoulder to rest against and if he did have a dig in the side of the cutting tip  would be pushed clear.
He used a 35 degree 13mm bowl gouge on the bevel to shape the inside of the bowl
A Teeth biting moment was then had by many in the audience as he proceeded to cut from centre out, tool upside down.
Yep you guessed it another very clean curve and finish, Sorry for doubting you Colin you sure had me sitting on the edge of my seat but be assured Ill be trying your technique on my next small bowl.
Thanks to both demonstrators that had put a lot of thought and planning into staging their respective demonstrations.
Terry Scott

Offset Candle Holder – Richard Johnstone

Club Meeting: 23 September 2015
Report by Colin Wise

A set of plans is available here

Richard set the piece of wood in the lathe between steb centres, setting speed to around 2000 rpm. Turn to a rough round with a roughing gouge then explained that Warwick did it this way, Dick action went something like this, Phred will use a skew like this, while Terry winds up the speed and with the roughing gouge fires chips everywhere, Terry to a T.


Richard went on to make quite a respectable shape with the 2 centre piece. Then went on to one he had started at home, which has 3 centres, giving a twist effect. Showing 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 3 to 1 then said it was easier to colour the centers, red, green and black and do it red to red, black to black…


He turned it using a roughing gouge and the the skew, with a slight whoopsy. Finishing it off with a bowl gouge, making it a very interesting evening.


Well done Richard.

Off the Edge – Gary McDonald

Club Meeting: 16 September 2015
Report by : Alan Day

Gary shows us half a dozen trial pieces of work he had to do to get it right !  The inspiration of this piece came from Barbara Dill.

While starting his project at home, he had a loose fitting garment, and unconsciously slid it over the tool rest, while he was concentrating on the job in hand of trying not to let the off centre work strike him in any way ! now his left arm is entangled with the tool rest, he was trying to turn the lathe off, but couldn’t reach it with his right hand ! but eventually managed it ! phew, now he has a remote off switch, – once bitten !


For our Demo he has a block of timber 110 x 110 x 130 mm, makes lines both ends from corner to corner, makes a centre mark, then another centre mark 35 mm along one of the lines, and at the other end a similar mark but in the on the other side of the centre mark, so it will look like a diamond when it is spinning !
Using a hand drill with a Forstner bit in, he drills shallow holes at a slight angle so when he has the block off centre, the two steb centres, one as a driver, and the other live,  will have a flat surface to push into. Gary offers the block up to the headstock steb centre, he brings the tailstock up and locks it with the Handle on the downward side, as recommended by Champion Wheel Maker – Brydon,

The work is marked around with black lines to help guide the gouge while it’s spinning, and blue lines to show where the sphere will be, a 100 mm tool rest is brought up,and the block spun by hand to make sure it is all clear, Gary has a long Carbatec Universal Gouge handle, and fits a Bowl/Spindle Gouge with a 30 deg grind to it, gently offering it up to the spinning block rotating at 500 rpm, and we can hear the hit and miss, tic tic tic as the wood spins, and Gary is watching not the gouge, but the shadow on the top, working one side, then the other gradually deepens a groove, while pressing down the gouge firmly on the tool rest, to get a clean cut.

Gary stops the lathe to measure the width of the gap, and now he can change the 100 mm rest for a 30 mm to fit inside the groove, scary turning eh !
Gary recommends reading the article on Off Centre Turning by Barbara in the AAW magazine, now making deeper cuts while the wood wizzes past at an alarming rate, not a time to lose your concentration !   Now turning a ball at the bottom of the tapered groove, and widening the sides, Gary says be careful not to hit the right side while widening the left  or vice versa, now cutting the base next to the headstock end, he says Nick Agar uses an under hand grip, not possible with this rest,


He has made a `Bow Sander’ to sand the ball, so instead of a bowstring, a long strip of sandpaper is stung between the ends, so he is able to sand the little ball while keeping his digits away from the spinning work, he stops the lathe and uses a Hot Melt Glue Gun to glue wedges in to support the unsupported nascent sphere, he says Barbara turns at a higher speed, and gets a better finish off the gouge,  check out the Web Site on Multi Axis Turning, doing lights cuts outside the tailstock end, and quickly gets the required shape. He recommends a book by David Ellsworth which suggests keeping the right hand further back on the gouge handle for greater control/leverage, left for left handers, he says one time he was at home and had to re-tighten the tailstock out several times, only to find the headstock was moving backwards !!

Speeds of 800 rpm now, holding his gouge handle close to/touching his body, he didn’t complete the Off The Edge Sphere, but says at home it takes about 1 & 3/4 hours.

Questions are asked for, and answered, this was a really good demo, – of something we might not have thought of trying at home,
Thanks Gary for showing us how to, and not be afraid of the spinning lump of timber !
Cheers Mate,
Alan Day

Dust Protection and Extraction – Warwick Day, John Whitmore

Club Meeting: 9th September 2015
Report by: Kevin Reeve

A synopsis of the general theme of the two main topics covered by the presenters, Warwick Day focused on dust protection for the “turner” whilst John Whitmore would later follow on illustrating how to eliminate dust totally from the environment by wet sanding.

The presentation was started off by Warwick, who identified specific areas to minimise dust, affecting the person.

Dust potential starts well before you even turn the lathe on, so deciding what you are turning has an impact of the volume of dust created.  As an example, thought should be given to whether you are turning end grain, which creates a lot more dust, or cross grain, which in general has less dust.

Wood Type
With any wood turned, shavings and dust are the resultant effect.
Those that are more sensitive to dust should consider using a harder wood to turn, such as walnut or Black Marie.
Some of the softer woods do create more dust, so this needs to be another consideration for minimising the effect of dust on the person, and your work area.
An example, demolition rimu, where the fibres in the wood exhibited some rotting, created a lot more dust.
In general, the lighter the wood, the more dust there will be Warwick says.
A question was asked from the floor about spalting, and the risks.
Spalting is any discolouration of wood caused by fungi.  Research has identified that it can be found in a living tree, a tree under stress or a dead tree.
The area for concern for the turner are the fungi pores can have a detrimental effect on the lungs, as well as your skin. Coupled with this there needs to be a consideration about the types of wood you are using which may escalate the risks.
This lead to a discussion about toxic wood.
The beginner guide does cover toxic woods, and will not be expanded on this in article, as it is a very specific field, and a topic which can be covered on its’ own merits.

How sharp are your tools?
The question was put to the audience to get turners thinking about the tool they are using, and their condition.
The turner should not become lax in their tool maintenance, and at every opportunity where there is some trepidation about the quality of their tool sharpness, it should be remedied.
The sharper the tool, the less dust.

Levels of Dust Protection
There are a variety of dusk masks of the market, both in quality and specific use. Careful consideration must be given to both how they fit the user, and the level of dust protection they provide.
Dust masks have various ratings for example P1 P2 and P3. If the reader requires an in-depth description of the mask ratings, they can go to:
There is a good amount of information on this site to assist the turner.

Full face dust protection
Warwick demonstrated the AC400 full face enclosed dust and face mask system. The advantage of this system is the battery is enclosed in the head unit and can provide up to 8 hours plus service.
The unit describes as providing full air filtration.
The face shield is rated at 90 kilo Newton’s.  As a comparison, the clubs shields are rated at 70 KN

Vacuums cleaners, Air hose blowers, and Fans
Warwick completed the first part of his presentation of 3 other devices. His number one tool in the shed was a vacuum cleaner to clear and reduce dust.
Secondly, he pointed out the disadvantage of using an air hose to blow dust everywhere, the more dust you blow around the more dust you are working in.
Warwick touched on the use of free standing fans, and the benefits and blowing dust away from the area you working in.
These can be beneficial combined with a good extraction system, and perhaps fresh air.
This lead on to a discussion from the floor that dust in the workshop can present an inherent risk of being highly combustible if not attended to.

Hand and power sanding tools
Warwick exhibited the different types of power sand tools.
His preference is the inertia type sander with the lathe running at a low speed.
The advantage he suggested was there was less heat created through rotation from two seperate electrical power sources.

The next part of the presentation was from John Whitmore


John’s suggested there should be no dust at all.
Speaking from experience, John turns inside his own home, and albeit a few wood shavings in the house, he has attempted to eliminate all dust in the environment.
John commences his presentation by offering free dusk masks to everyone.
John introduced his presentation by saying humans have lived with dust for “millennia” and because of our ability to get rid of dust through lungs and their biological efficiency.
He went on to say that because of the industrial revolution, our natural ability to do this has been nullified due to exposure to external chemical variants that we would not have been exposed to.
There was some brief discussion around asbestosis, its’ origin’s and use.
He presented a wet sanding solution using 100 grit sand paper and Ondina oil which is produced by shell petroleum. (Research can be done by looking up the product)
There was discussion about the limitations with finishing whilst using this product.
The merits using this way of sanding were presented were twofold:
Eliminating dust by creating a slurry effect on the Astra paper
It cools the wood
A comment from the floor suggested any type of small brush will remove the slurry and one can perhaps use WD40.

The next part of the presentation was again from Warwick about machinery and dust extraction using various machines from manufacturers, but due to the extended time taken with the meeting it is an area that should be looked at again.
A big thanks to Warwick and John. An extremely informative presentation about dust and how it can affect turners, and something we should all consider.

Making a Mallet – Phread Thurston

Club Meeting; 25 August 2015
Report by David Jones

Phread  started his  demonstration by making a mallet in under 2 minutes without using the lathe at all.- simply cutting a piece off 100X75mm radiata post, drilling a hole through it with a forstner bit, cutting a length of dowel for the handle, shoving it into the head and walking away.
Clearly a very impressive performance from a speed point of view, but a rather useless mallet , unlikely to last..


Phread then proceeded to give an excellent demonstration on basic woodturning, and the importance of accuracy depending on the requirements of the project.

He started by showing a spurtle and a doris, both particularly shaped pieces of wood designed to stir food in a pot, and both made with a spoke shave . They were both beautiful to look  at as well as excellent in doing the job they were designed for, demonstrating the use of the spokeshave and the effects of cutting with and against the grain.

The head of the mallet had already been drilled for the shaft, but as the head was to be turned off-center, Phread then spent some time discussing the need for maximum accuracy in marking the exact center of each end of the mallet head and the use of the right sized ruler and the making of the point with an awl rather than a builders pencil. The ends were marked with diagonal lines as well as right angle lines through the centre of each end and four offset points 10mm each side of the center.

The head was then partially turned between centers before being offset 4 times using the 10mm offset points previously marked. The head was then sanded along the grain.
Putting the mallet head back on the lathe between centers, Phread then demonstrated marking and cutting the mallet head to the exact length required using a parting tool and then a skew chisel to cut off the torn grain and remove the arras  on the edge.

The handle had a sawcut put in it about 50mm long to take a wedge and was then roughed about 32mm except at the end where the wedge cut was where a taper was put on. A very wide cove was then put into the handle with a large spindle gouge, before Phread reverted to his favorite skew chisel to finish the bottom end of the handle and the taper so the handle would fit through the hole in the head of the mallet. All this time he was demonstrating how to stand and hold the tools so that there was minimum effort. He also pointed out the need for the wedge direction to be at right angles to the mallet head direction, to avoid the mallet head cracking when fitting.

Thanks Phread for an excellent demonstration about the real basics of woodturning which are so essential for our craft.

The Last Drop – Dick Veitch

Club Meeting: 19-Aug-2015
Report by:

By my count eight axes less than the “Bean” this time a modest five, this multi axis demonstration is an adaptation based on a Mark Sfirri turning. The intention is to portray squeezing the last drop from the bottle.

Dick started with a piece of Taraire (Beilschmiedia tarairi)100mm square by 270mm long.  The SAWG Beginners Guide to Woodturning states about Taraire “May be described as a slightly pinkish tawa and some heart wood can be brown. Turns easily and polishes well.”

Now from here on this report is a rather easy affair and you have two options you can skip to the Projects page and down load the PDF titled “The Last Drop” here Dick has again provided yet another  excellent resource sheet, or plough your way through my ramblings.

At one end mark centre on the other end markout and then label the five axes A through to E all these are marked on one diagonal, for a very accurate layout a knife instead of a pencil may be utilised with the use of an awl to mark the locations.
Mounting the blank in a 100mm chuck down to round for roughly half of the blank to approximately 65mm being the size of the base of the selected bottle then part off 100mm up from the base with a double cut to form the base of the box.

With the remaining piece still in the chuck form the lid of the box, check squareness of the inner rim of the lid of the box with a straight edge against the bed of the lathe to ensure a good fit.

Mount the base in a chuck with some form of protection Dick used a piece of drain pipe, hollow out the inside, if using a forstner bit check there is enough remaining wall space verses the forstner bit selected size. With a freshly sharpened bit keep the bit moving when drilling and ensure shavings are exiting, turn the handwheel reasonably quickly.


After hollowing out, tidy the inside base of the box with a Soren Berger or tool of choice. Next fit the lid to the box.
The following is the order for mounting B,A,C,D and E.

From this point on it may be easiest to refer to the project sheet, moving the piece between the various axes forming beads and coves on the neck with sharp crisp connections, along with the cap the bottle started to take shape. During these stages one could be forgiven if the connections between the various axes left them a little contemplative but by the time the final cut was made on axis E everything fell into place and the last drop emerged.


Another well executed, informative, fun demo – thanks Dick.

Project Sheet :The Last Drop

Three Sided Bowl – Andrew Bright

Club Meeting: 12 August 2015
Report by: Phread Thurston

When Andrew showed us what he was about to demonstrate I thought “how the hell will he turn that and I hope it’s competed before midnight “.  Read this article and you will get both questions answered.


You start with a piece of wood that is cut into an equilateral triangle say 45mm thick.  Mark the centre and mount on a screw chuck.  Face this off.  Remember the tip of keeping the tool rest parallel with the end result of the trued up face.  Sand when true, take off and repeat on the other face.  Both faces are parallel with each other and sanded.

Take it off the lathe chuck and all.  Now the next chuck that it was mounted on is not able to be described in this article.  It was an off centre adjustable chuck made by Andrew ( he has another life I think as a Fitter & Turner. ).  There are other ways of holding the work which is off centre and adjustable but this article is not the place to try to describe them.


Before it’s mounted the circles require setting out.  With an equilateral triangle take a line from an apex to the centre of it’s opposite long side and draw a line.  Do this for the three legs of the triangle.  Now with a little trial and error work out a diameter for the circles and Andrew’s was approx 120mm.  Since the block is 45mm thick you can drill a hole in the centre of the circles to say 30mm and this will become the guide for the bottom of the bowls.  The bowls are then turned conventionally taking care that after the first, you will turn air and a little care is needed not to chip the bowl edge.  By using the adjustable off centre chuck the three bowls are completed and sanded up making sure you keep the three circles or bowl circumferences the same diameter.  Andrew uses sanding sealer after completing this stage.


The back of the three sided bowl can be marked with the same markings as already described above.  Go to the band saw and cut from apex to the marked centre on the three legs.  There are many ways to sand up the three pieces but the sanding disc on the lathe with a supporting table on the lathe bed which was demonstrated worked real well.  Sand each piece, round the corners and do the top and bottoms.  In other words finish all the sanding at this point.
Using same contrasting colour wood and 10mm thick which has been dressed both sides mark out the three legs.  The style of leg and it’s position within the three sided bowl has more than one possibility and depends on how you want the end result to look.  A tip is to connect the three legs together and sand them connected so the end result is three equal looking legs.


Everything all sanded and coated with sanding sealer it’s join up time.  This is really about patience, putting the brain in gear and it will go together.  Why don’t you try to make one.  I now know how and yes the demonstration was well done and inside the time available.  Thank you Andrew.