Category Archives: Reports

The Last Drop – Dick Veitch

Club Meeting: 19-Aug-2015
Report by:

By my count eight axes less than the “Bean” this time a modest five, this multi axis demonstration is an adaptation based on a Mark Sfirri turning. The intention is to portray squeezing the last drop from the bottle.

Dick started with a piece of Taraire (Beilschmiedia tarairi)100mm square by 270mm long.  The SAWG Beginners Guide to Woodturning states about Taraire “May be described as a slightly pinkish tawa and some heart wood can be brown. Turns easily and polishes well.”

Now from here on this report is a rather easy affair and you have two options you can skip to the Projects page and down load the PDF titled “The Last Drop” here Dick has again provided yet another  excellent resource sheet, or plough your way through my ramblings.

At one end mark centre on the other end markout and then label the five axes A through to E all these are marked on one diagonal, for a very accurate layout a knife instead of a pencil may be utilised with the use of an awl to mark the locations.
Mounting the blank in a 100mm chuck down to round for roughly half of the blank to approximately 65mm being the size of the base of the selected bottle then part off 100mm up from the base with a double cut to form the base of the box.

With the remaining piece still in the chuck form the lid of the box, check squareness of the inner rim of the lid of the box with a straight edge against the bed of the lathe to ensure a good fit.

Mount the base in a chuck with some form of protection Dick used a piece of drain pipe, hollow out the inside, if using a forstner bit check there is enough remaining wall space verses the forstner bit selected size. With a freshly sharpened bit keep the bit moving when drilling and ensure shavings are exiting, turn the handwheel reasonably quickly.


After hollowing out, tidy the inside base of the box with a Soren Berger or tool of choice. Next fit the lid to the box.
The following is the order for mounting B,A,C,D and E.

From this point on it may be easiest to refer to the project sheet, moving the piece between the various axes forming beads and coves on the neck with sharp crisp connections, along with the cap the bottle started to take shape. During these stages one could be forgiven if the connections between the various axes left them a little contemplative but by the time the final cut was made on axis E everything fell into place and the last drop emerged.


Another well executed, informative, fun demo – thanks Dick.

Project Sheet :The Last Drop

Three Sided Bowl – Andrew Bright

Club Meeting: 12 August 2015
Report by: Phread Thurston

When Andrew showed us what he was about to demonstrate I thought “how the hell will he turn that and I hope it’s competed before midnight “.  Read this article and you will get both questions answered.


You start with a piece of wood that is cut into an equilateral triangle say 45mm thick.  Mark the centre and mount on a screw chuck.  Face this off.  Remember the tip of keeping the tool rest parallel with the end result of the trued up face.  Sand when true, take off and repeat on the other face.  Both faces are parallel with each other and sanded.

Take it off the lathe chuck and all.  Now the next chuck that it was mounted on is not able to be described in this article.  It was an off centre adjustable chuck made by Andrew ( he has another life I think as a Fitter & Turner. ).  There are other ways of holding the work which is off centre and adjustable but this article is not the place to try to describe them.


Before it’s mounted the circles require setting out.  With an equilateral triangle take a line from an apex to the centre of it’s opposite long side and draw a line.  Do this for the three legs of the triangle.  Now with a little trial and error work out a diameter for the circles and Andrew’s was approx 120mm.  Since the block is 45mm thick you can drill a hole in the centre of the circles to say 30mm and this will become the guide for the bottom of the bowls.  The bowls are then turned conventionally taking care that after the first, you will turn air and a little care is needed not to chip the bowl edge.  By using the adjustable off centre chuck the three bowls are completed and sanded up making sure you keep the three circles or bowl circumferences the same diameter.  Andrew uses sanding sealer after completing this stage.


The back of the three sided bowl can be marked with the same markings as already described above.  Go to the band saw and cut from apex to the marked centre on the three legs.  There are many ways to sand up the three pieces but the sanding disc on the lathe with a supporting table on the lathe bed which was demonstrated worked real well.  Sand each piece, round the corners and do the top and bottoms.  In other words finish all the sanding at this point.
Using same contrasting colour wood and 10mm thick which has been dressed both sides mark out the three legs.  The style of leg and it’s position within the three sided bowl has more than one possibility and depends on how you want the end result to look.  A tip is to connect the three legs together and sand them connected so the end result is three equal looking legs.


Everything all sanded and coated with sanding sealer it’s join up time.  This is really about patience, putting the brain in gear and it will go together.  Why don’t you try to make one.  I now know how and yes the demonstration was well done and inside the time available.  Thank you Andrew.

Triple Neck Vase – Colin Wise

Club Meeting Demo: 5 August 2015
Report by: Roger Wilson

Does three go into one….yes as demonstrated by Colin Wise

In the interests of a constrained time frame Colin elected to use less than suitable timber (too soft) in order to demonstrate the stage by stage process involved in turning this rather delicately trumpet fluted three neck vase.

Colin explained that in essence, you create three separate vases however a bonus would be in remembering ones school days geometry.
It is critical at the starting point that the joining angle of 120 degrees is established and that the correct offset is marked..e.g. 16 degrees on the bottom (tailstock), 42 degrees at the top (headstock) which equates to a 15 degree offset over the 130 mm length.
What was also demonstrated by Collin was his use of an ingenious wooden chuck shaped to hold the vase for both turning and shaping the trumpet plus hollowing out the vase. This chuck (attached to a set of cole jaws) piece of apparatus was the culmination of about two days work but once made would allow for multiple replication.
Collin made use of his sphere turning setup to show how the perfect sphere can be produced in spite of working with soft  timber.

This stage by stage demonstration by Collin Wise showed that with patience what appears to be magic could, with care, be a reality for wood turners with some experience.
A full diagrammatic description can be found on (ed: not sure where)

Multi-Center Bowl – Dave Dernie

Club Meeting :  27 July 2015
Report by: Dave Armstrong

David started his demonstration by discussing the “Methodology” or the process of turning his pieces and showed us examples or his two types.  One being an oblong piece with three dishes and the more traditional round piece, also with three dishes.  David mentioned that it is possible to make pieces with more dishes (bowls) depending on the swing of the lathe and your layout.  Dishes could also overlap.  He showed us the process of designing and making suitable jigs and faceplates with additional sacrificial fixing plates.
David stressed the safety and balancing required, and the need for accuracy when marking out. Other considerations are aesthetics and the use of contrasting timbers along with the relation between lathe speed, diameter and chisel speed.
Throughout his preamble and demonstration he supported his comments with a very well-constructed PowerPoint presentation.

Demo – Oblong Piece

David positioned his oblong stock on the oblong jig attached to the large faceplate which was swung at 45deg over the bed and turned the first outer dish.  He then made a template of the depth required to use as his guide for turning the other dishes.  Next he tipped his piece end for end and turned the second outer dish. Having completed these he then goes on to turn the centre dish and finished to suit.
He stressed the safety aspects concerning projecting wood spinning on the faceplate, keeping elbow into the body and also the need to ensure you mark out accurately or the dishes may not be positioned correctly.


Round Piece

David mounted his round work-piece to the large faceplate and proceeded to show the marking out using indexing and his drilling jig which was fitted to the banjo.  This ensures the dishes will be uniformly positioned around the blank. Each position was numbered.
The piece was then positioned at number one marking.  The complete faceplate and workpiece are checked for balance and the first dish turned and sanded.  Then he repositioned the work-piece to the next positions, balancing and turning until finished and sanded.


As usual, considerable time is spent making jigs, sacrificial faceplates, and marking out etc. but the reward is a repeatable piece in the end.
Davids demo was so informative that everyone remained absorbed throughout and he fielded many questions at the end. Thanks David for your great demo.

Off-Centre Burl – Terry Scott

Demonstration Date: 23 July 2015
Demonstrator: Terry Scott
Author of Article: Wim Nijmeijer

Terry started by first giving us some general information about the wood, being Coolabah Burl (Eucalyptus Coolabah, found throughout Australia)
The burl is water blasted under high pressure to remove the bark and further processed in order to satisfy NZ customs. Typically there is a 24% moisture loss due to processing prior to importation into NZ.
Next Terry showed us a typical “flywheel” (can be made from custom wood or preferably from plywood)
The flywheel is used to attach the burl and also to balance the off centered burl.
A few examples of off centered turnings were shown.
Next the center of the burl was determined.

Terry then demonstrated how to attach the wood onto the flywheel. This was achieved by using a packer board, spacers/wedges and a glue gun and plenty of glue!
The packer board is then positioned and fastened with screws to the flywheel. Terry then removed all this and replaced it with a pre-mounted burl already fitted to a flywheel. (Center of burl at center of rotation, tailstock in place)

It was noted that this assembly was already sufficiently balanced.
The assembly was first rotated by hand before switching on the lathe at a slow speed, and then gradually increasing the speed to approximately 650 RPM.
The face of the burl was now turned. (Light cuts and rubbing the bevel)
Terry then showed us various pieces of lead used for balancing. Balancing is achieved on the lathe by attaching sufficient lead weights on the flywheel to offset the out of balance of the off centered burl. In this instance only 1 screw was used to balance the assembly.
With the tailstock removed the face of the burl was now completed using light cuts, followed by scraping.

With the flywheel still on the lathe, the burl was removed. (Including packer board, spacers/wedges)
Next a number of overlapping off centered circles were drawn on the finished face of the burl.
Then the burl was fastened again to the flywheel, with the first bowl centered on the tailstock. The burl was then balanced as required using 3 lead weights secured with 2 screws per weight to the flywheel. Webbing can also be used to provide additional security.
The assembly was first rotated by hand again before switching on the lathe at a slow speed. (Beware of the off centered rotating burl)
With the tailstock removed the first off centered bowl was turned using a 35-degree bowl gouge. Terry then finished the bowl using a ring tool (tungsten carbide ring) starting at the bottom of the bowl at approx. 80% and then rotated slightly as the cut progressed to finish the inside of the bowl. The bowl was then finally finished with the use of a negative rake scraper.

Next the burl and packer board were repositioned on the flywheel, by lining up the second bowl centered on the tailstock, and again fastened to the flywheel. This was then followed again by balancing.
The second bowl was then turned. First a 35-degree bowl gouge was used (light cuts, as cutting into the first bowl) followed by a 55-degree bowl gouge to finish the bottom of the bowl. Final finishing was done with the negative rake scraper. (Very light cuts)
The third off centered bowl, sanding and finishing with Danish Oil were not carried out due to lack of time.
All in all a very interesting demo with lots of additional information provided and as usual very well executed.
Thank you Terry.

Top Hat Egg Cups – Graeme Mackay

Club Evening;     24th June 2015
Report by:  John Smart

Graeme showed some of his work on these Egg Cups with hats on.
He started with some of his thoughts & work on this subject as there are many options; Pointed versions ex Richard Raffan, Round & full bodied ex Grey Lynn.  Stories regarding Runny Eggs with lips to hold the juices.  Ice Cream look-a-likes all made from different timbers. He makes all of his from all forms of wood like Tasmanian Blackwood which after use ends up with a good gloss plus all other types of supplies coming from the firewood bin and ever looked at wood locker.

His next subject was PENCILS 3 years ago he purchased 3 dozen Pink carpenters pencils and since then has never found one where he stores them he of course blames the Nombessssss.


We then got to the nitty gritty what size egg do we use and that required more discussion.  It ended up as a size 7 egg you will find all the dimensions in our projects file EGG CUP.


Graeme created a entertaining evening and showed the skills he has plus a lot of technical advise that he uses which we can all adapt where necessary ourselves

Projects File; Egg Cup

Thanks Graeme

John Smart

First Aid – St John Youth

Club Meeting: 17/6/2015
Author: Alistair Hancox

The St John volunteers delivered a very informative presentation on Wednesday night to those in attendance. We were given some sound advice on what to do should we or someone close by get into a spot of trouble. An interesting point made was that 30% of all calls to 111 aren’t for urgent emergencies. A key message from the evening was how to identify when to call the emergency line, and alternatively when to get yourself to A&E. If you’re even in doubt on whether to dial 111 for an ambulance, phone Healthline on 0800 611 116. A registered nurse will be able to provide you with advice. It’s important to note that in some cases, it may be quicker to drive the person in need to the hospital or A&E, rather than phoning for an ambulance.
Their main points of the presentation can be broken down into a number of key topics, outlined below.

The first question to ask is what’s the severity? Is if from a main vein or artery? If so, call for an ambulance. Some wounds can be associated with injuries beneath the skin. The first priority with bleeding, is to try and stop it. Apply pressure and wrap with a pad and bandage. If blood is leaking through the bandage, add another pad and wrap again. Do not remove the previous bandage.

Triangular Bandage
It’s important to elevate any bleeding and bandaged part of the body. We were given a demonstration on how to fold a triangular bandage to rest a wounded arm in a sling. During the audience participation, the room began to resemble a scene from the television show M.A.S.H. It was just as entertaining too.
Foreign Objects Embedded in a Limb
Do not remove! Leaving it in until you are being seen by health professionals will avoid additional internal damage. If you can move and you can manage the bleeding, get to A&E. If not, phone an ambulance.

Apply pressure to the severed end. Take the detached appendage with you in a sealed plastic bag. Do not put it on ice. This will damage it and make reattachment and recovery harder. If you can get yourself to A&E, do so. If not, phone an ambulance.

Heart Attack
It’s important to recognise the early warning signs: Chest pain, pain down the left side of the body, rapid or irregular pulse, blue colouring of the skin, or a feeling of impending doom. If someone is having a heart attack, call 111 and put them in the W-position. This is lying/sitting on the ground with your knees brought up. This will take some pressure off the heart.

Eye Injury
Don’t rub the eye. Try and flush out anything that gets in there. Look straight. If you can’t get out something which has got in your eye, go to A&E.

A stroke is caused by a blocked blood vessel in the brain. Recognising the signs of a stroke are important (Facial droop, loss of mobility in ones arms or legs, slurred speech, etc.). It is very important to get the victim to the hospital as quick as you can. At the hospital, an injection is given which can break down the clot. This must be administered within 2 hours of the stroke for the best chance of recovery.

CPR should be done on someone who has become unconscious, isn’t breathing, and/or doesn’t have a pulse. The first instance in this situation is to call 111 for an ambulance, then begin giving CPR. CPR should be given in a sequence of 30 chest compressions to two breaths. You should be aiming to compress the chest by about 1/3. The patient should be on a firm surface, like the floor, not a bed. Chest compressions should ironically be to the beat and timing of Another One Bites the Dust by Queen. Keep CPR going until an ambulance arrives. CPR will unlikely bring someone back by itself, though it should keep the patient alive long enough to get a defibrillator to them. Defibrillators are becoming common in places like supermarkets or other community centres. They are very easy to use and increase the chances of survival dramatically.

Recovery Position
The recovery position should be used when the patient is breathing and in a stable condition. Lay the person onto their side with their lower arm pointing straight up. Their head should rest on this arm. The lower leg should point straight down. Bring the knee up of the other leg.

If someone is chocking, grab them from behind and give them 5 strong compressions to the chest (Not the diaphragm!). Compressions to the diaphragm can cause damage to a victims internal organs. Follow  up the 5 compressions with 5 hard smacks on the back. Repeat as necessary.

Rolling Pins – Colin Wise

Club Meeting: 4 June 2015
Report by: Bill Alden
Photos: Ross Johnson

Rolling Pins can be traced back to the 9th Century. Commercial production of them started in the 18th Century and were made from Pine, probably a harder wood than we are used to. They were also used for crushing Oats. In the late 18th Century JW Reid patented a rolling pin with a central rod handles on each end which could be held firm in use. In the USA 650 to 700,000 are sold pa. They are made out of a wide range of materials. Some are patterned to leave an impression in the dough.

SAWG 3 June 037

They can have handles or be just a straight cylinder with many different diameters and lengths. Smaller ones are used for icing sugar. A French rolling pin has a taper from the centre to each end.

Colin demonstrated some beading with a bead cutter on a small pin in order to pattern the dough. Black Maire is a good wood as it is heavy and turns well.
SAWG 3 June 045

We discussed ways of keeping the cylinder equal along its length. Sight the tool rest with the bed and follow that, another method is to Part down to a given size using callipers slightly larger than the required finished diameter.

Thank you Colin for an informative evening.

Ladles & Caddy Spoons – Terry Scott

Club Meeting: 27 May 2015
Report by : Ian Connelly
Photos: Ross Johnson

In typical Terry fashion the demo started with a story about the history of the caddy spoon and how valuable tea was etc. etc.  then he finished by saying what he read on the net was very interesting and we should all go and read it because he had forgotten and just made up everything.  Terry had many different spoons to show, which ranged from functional to purely decorative.

Caddy Spoon

Mount a 47 x 47 block,  in a 50mm chuck with a steb centre in the tailstock

Round with the roughing gouge

Smooth with the skew

Mark out a ‘ball’ at the spoon end, using a parting tool to defined the sides and round roughly


Shape the handle

Terry used a sharpened pipe to tidy up the rounded ball (ideally the pipe diameter is less than the ball diameter ehh Terry)


Remove the tailstock, and clean up the end


Take out of chuck and use bandsaw to split down the middle (the square end makes this easier)

Make a jam chuck to hollow the spoon, some people may find the hot melt is also required to help hold it.


Sand the spoon and handle.


Cooking Spoon

Mount flat piece of wood between steb centres. (Terry used wood about 12 x 80mm)

Turn the handle



Part off at end of handle

Shape spoon with bandsaw,  grinder, sander, dremel ……  (hand tools probably work too, but Terry avoids these)


Tartle – Dave Armstrong

Club Evening; 20 May 2015
Report By: John Smart
Photos: Ross Johnson

Dave spoke about the word Tartle.

‘Tartle’ is a word derived from the Scottish Language which means “The act of hesitating while introducing someone because you’ve forgotten their name.” Todays item refers to an item used by Cooks & Bakers it assists in pushing pastry into pie trays.
Supplies; Start with a block 130mm long & 65mm square. Straight grained wood which will withstand frequent washing is recommended.

In Projects on our web page you will find a full article under Tartle it has the various measurements which if you make one of these to get “Brownie Points” you need to check which baking trays  are stored in the cupboard as there is a bit of confusion regarding the diameter at the base & top of the tray plus ensure the depth is taken into account.

As this effort was as a fill in along with our AGM Dave did a job that got our members all looking. Plus his talks about the lathe he has at home and his system he uses for sharpening his tools I expect we will see quite a few of our members trying it out.