Club demo: 28 May 2025

Report by: Kevin McFall

Kieran’s demo of a lidded spoon was a fun demo filled with spoonerisms and heckling encouraged. There was plenty of both!

The Spoon Bowl

Kieran started with a blank 50 x 55 and approx. 150mm long. For the demo this had been pre-prepared with a 20 x 50 piece cut out of it and a waste block of the same size glued in place.
The piece cut out was then glued to another waste block for turning the lid, alignment of the grain needs to be considered here.

The piece that was to be the spoon was then marked out to get the centres. At the end with the waste glued on the centre is marked on the core piece ignoring the waste piece, the other end is marked to exclude the same area as the waste at the opposite end and then marked up.

With what was to be the spherical spoon end in the chuck, Kieran bought up the tailstock and rounded to a blank cylinder (at approx 1750rpm) and added a spigot at the tailstock end. The finished diameter of the cylinder is 47mm.

Removing the blank and mounting it in the chuck he turned a sphere for the outside of the spoon bowl.

This sphere can be mathematically calculated, but in this case, Kieran used Soren Berger designed sphere calliper which does these proportions for cutting away corners to get a rough sphere. Once these are done the rough sphere is then machined to a nice sphere by eye, although using a piece of pipe can assist by rubbing it on the rotating sphere to highlight high spots, and sanded this to a nice finish.

Kieran then bought up the tailstock and used a chuck cub (a pre-turned cylinder of wood with a semi spherical cutout at one end that goes between the sphere and the tailstock to prevent damage to the sphere while between centres) between the sphere and the tailstock.

Kieran then turned the handle with some beads at the spoon end and 3 lines darkened with wire to embellish the handle. This was then sanded and parted off.

This piece was then put into a larger chuck with the glued waste block section exposed and the handle protruding through the gap in the jaws.

A piece of cut cardboard tube with a slit in it was placed around the sphere to protect from jaw damage.

The waste block was then turned off and the bowl of the spoon hollowed out. It is noted that care should be taken to not catch your arm on the spinning handle whilst doing this part of the spoon, as it is moving rapidly in close proximity. Kieran also removed his watch for this.

When hollowing out ensure you leave room for the lip for the lid to lock into and then cut this lip. The inside was then sanded.

The Spoon Lid

The other block that had the piece cut out of the spoon blank and glued to the waste block was then put into the chuck with the glued spoon blank piece exposed.

Kieran turned the wood round, faced it off. He then measured the spoon and turned a tenon to fit and hollowed out the lid of the box, regularly stopping the lathe and testing the fit of the spoon to the lid.

Kieran then shaped the top and parted it off. The then made a jam chuck from the remaining waste block to complete the top of the lid. After the lid flew across the room some hot glue was used to help secure it on the jam chuck! This was checked regularly with the spoon to ensure the spherical shapes match as closely as possible.

Kieran did a great demo filled with useful information and completed with his entertaining and humorous style!

Club Meeting: 9 April 2025
Report by: Ian Connelly

Jon Pearse and Kieran Fitzgerald teamed up to do a demo.

The guys had set up two lathes in the demo area. There was a little explanation of what they were going to do, where one would explain a process/project and the other would turn while waiting for his opportunity to talk.

Kieran started making a treen – a small wooden object for domestic use.

Jon then had a chance to talk, he was making a bowl. First you need to inspect your wood looking for defects.

He then discussed the screw chuck – reminding us to make the hole deep enough. The voyager drill press in the club can assist with this – zero the bit on the wood then watch the screen as you drill down to 20mm.

Cutting off the corners of the blank can assist with turning.

Then tenons, faceplates, tek screws. If the wood wants to run away when screwing the tek screws in clamp it between the banjo and the tailstock.

Kieran then had a turn to discuss his project.

Board 15mm thick

Hot melt glue chuck used to maximise use of timber.

Faced off the piece and made a recess for the 100mm chuck, only 1-2mm deep. Standard jaws have a bevel – this can be ground off the make a sharper edge to grip better.

Kieran made an ogee curve on the outside – divid the length into thirds to assist with this shape.

The treen was then reverse onto the recess mount, faced off…..

Jon then stepped in and talked about sanding – where he finds as you go up the grits, do one grit with the power sander and the next by hand.

Kieran then did a short demo of using spirit based dyes, lighting the meths to flash off the dye before adding another colour, sanding, more dye, more fire…..

The demo was a little erratic making the report quite challenging, but a very entertaining night was had by all, great job guys.

Club Meeting: 7 May 2025
Report by: Ian Connelly

Discussion started talking about the best wood to use. Glenn said he tried this process with wet wood, the issue was it was hard to drill and the hole closed up.

Dry wood, with straight grain seems to give better results, Glenn started with a black 40x40x300 mounted between centres.

He rounded this roughly, then mounted it is a chuck, ensuring it was centered by bringing up the tailstock.

He did a little bit of a tidy up of the rounding with the skew.

There was quite a discussion between Glenn and the audience about the process of drilling out the pipe and trying to stay on centre.

A summary of the discussion: Past experience of people that had made single piece pens suggest that hand holding the drill is often better that using a jacobs chuck and take it many small increments to make sure that the swarf does not build up and drive the drill off course.

Glenn used a long drill in a jacobs chuck to drill the pipe, after swapping out a bent drill for a nice new straight one (always great to have a backup plan for a demo)

A pop rivet shell was then places in the hole, so that tailstock support could be restored without splitting the wood.

Glenn progressively turned the pipe down to approx 10mm.

Then it was time for a little more work on the cup – Glenn drilled the cup out with a 20mm forstner.

Then there was a check done to make sure that the hole in the cup and the hole in the pipe met – success!

Next Glenn cut off much of the excess around the cup with the bandsaw, the remainder is then carved away using a dremel.

To bend the pipe, a wire is inserted down the hole to prevent it closing and the pipe was simmered for 30 minutes in water in a frypan. It was then clamped in a jig and allowed to cool.

A great demo of something different, thanks Glenn.

Club Meeting: 30 April 2025
Report by: Janet McDonald

This demonstrations theme was “Added Value”. Denise Donovan the demonstrator accomplished this by taking the basic turned box formula and adding a wrist bracelet as part of the boxes construction.

At the lower opening area of the box she turned a bracelet from the boxes edge. This making the bracelet removable from the box, when the lid was removed from the finished box.

She shaped the outer box profile to the same contours of the bracelet so when the box was closed you could not tell it was a bracelet, but just part of the overall box design shape.

Club Meeting: 2 April 2025
Report by: Ian Connelly

Dave started by discussing how he dissects a log to get a bowl blank. His preference is timber that is under compression as this gives the best figure. Such timber is found below branches, or in the root area of the tree.

He then mounted a piece of magnolia on a screw chuck, and bought up the tailstock for additional support. He pointed out that having the tailstock up when you can adds to the stability and safety.

He then showed roughing the blank down with the bowl gouge having bevel contact with the wood. Directing your weight down into the toolrest to prevent the tool jumping.

Another techinque he demonstrated was using the chisel with the bevel fully open, taking small cuts and controlling the depth with the forward hand against the toolrest.

As the blank becomes more round and balanced you can increase the lathe speed.

Always mark the centre of your spigot with the skew, using the tailstock on wet wood can result in you mark closing back up.

Dave then presented the option of gluing on a spigot. This can be a handy technique if you want to use the full depth of wood. He used an offcut from his spindle work (pays to keep these for this or jam chucks etc). Using “Jimmy’s glue” he wet both surfaces before applying the glue then clamped the joint in the lathe for 4 minutes, can turn this particular glue in 30 minutes.

Dave then talked about faceplate turning, and pointed out to try not to get multiple screws in line on the grain, as this can lead to a spilt.

He then showed another bowl with a spigot within a bigger recess. This can help simplify the final finishing of the bowl as you can just remove the spigot without having to put as much thought into the shape of the base as this is already formed around the recess.

Dave showed the process of reversing a bowl using the reversing mandrel in the tailstock. This allowed the second chuck to be better aligned to the already turned outside of the bowl.

Dave proceeded to hollow the bowl with tailstock support, leaving a cylinder in the centre, which he then cleaned up. This process reduced the stress on the spigot and allowed him to potentially take bigger cuts.

There was a high spot in the middle of the bowl, Dave showed using shading of a pencil the process of cleaning up this high spot progressively until all the pencil was removed.

The demo was an interesting journey through a number of different ideas and approaches to something that many of us take for granted. It reinforced that there are many ways to approach turning a bowl while still doing it safely. Thanks Dave.

Club Meeting: 26 March 2025
Report By Cory Wyatt.

Kerry has been a member of the North Shore Woodturners Guild for 30 years and has developed from turning to many other facets of wood work including making many many boxes with marquetry.

So, what is Marquetry? Google states that Marquetry is the art and craft of applying pieces of veneer to a structure to form decorative patterns or designs.

The Process:

You start with a drawing that you want to make. This is called a Cartoon, this is then transferred to tracing or baking paper.

You next choose your wood, were contrasting colours make the over all image pop. Using tape (you use a lot of tape so have plenty before starting) create a hinge on with the traced image, wood to be cut and a piece of waste wood. Mind the patterns on the wood, burls and grains can be used to develop the image.

The cut the pattern out on the scroll saw. Use tape as needed to stop the wood fluffing. You can complete the same steps over and over and double up on layers of veneer to ensure you pieces match with only a small curf. The curf is the space cut by the blade and explains the small gaps between different pieces.

To cut inner shapes use a small drill bit to cut a whole just bigger than the blade (0.6-0.7mm) and thread the blade through and cut as normal. Here is where a non-pinned blade is easier as a smaller hole is needed for the blade as no pin is present. When drilling, only drill 4-5 holes at once, as they can fill with dust causing issues later.

When all the pieces are ready and taped up turn over and cover in PVA (Tight bond) glue and place on the backing board. Place a small piece of foam and a board and clamp together. Baking paper can be used to ensure the foam does not stick. The foam limits the damage to the veneers.

After 24 hours peel and sand, be careful as the veneer depth is about 0.7mm. Finish as you see fit.

For discussion on pinned vs Pinless blades here is a highly rated Youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suvhnj1yx80

Club Meeting: 19 March 2025
Report by: Bill Alden

Dick opened with some Do’s and Dont’s of Box Making

• Don’t put a thread on a box except for small pill boxes or a needle case.
• Don’t make it too big consider hand size.
• Pop fit is not encouraged as it takes 2 hands to open.
• You may use a finial as a handle.
• If it is wider than it is tall use cross grain wood. If taller than wide End grain is better.

Dick then showed us a dozen or so boxes from his collection made by various people in the club and overseas visitors.

Butterfly Box

He started with the block pushed firmly against the chuck jaws with the tail stock and cut a 46mm spigot on one end.

After reversing it into the chuck it was rounded down to the outside diameter of 75mm which will allow a 65mm internal diameter for a butterfly box.

Make the final cut slowly with a freshly sharpened 10mm bowl gouge. He then cut a 46mm spigot on the bottom.

Then he measured for a 20mm deep hollow on the inside. Before the final parting off of the lid a 2mm parting cut was made on the lid end to the correct size to fit into the neck of the box

Then mount the lid in the chuck and cut a curve on the inside of the lid, finish and polish.

Dick showed two methods of hollowing the box

Method 1

Put base back on the chuck and hollow to a width of 65mm with a 55 degree bowl gouge to a depth of 20mm, using a flat scraper or a skew chisel to flatten the bottom.

Bring up the lid and sand the outside with lid attached and finish, tape on the lid and finish the top.

Method 2

Follow the same procedure up to *

This piece was done with a 65mm Forstner bit, tip keep the bit moving.

Dick then used the Soren Berger hollowing tool which is designed to cut a flat bottom on the box. With the tool horizontal draw from the centre hole to the outside.

Finial

Dick then showed us a basic finial. Tips: Do not use the tailstock as the pressure will break it start with the top “onion” and work down the elements do not go back finish each element as you go.

Keep plenty of meat at the chuck end.

Use close grained hard wood. Hairy wood will not make a good finial and will be difficult to finish.

Thank you Dick for another informative Demonstration.

Box, Butterfly #1
Box, Butterfly #2
Box, Butterfly #3
Box, Butterfly #4

Club Meeting: 5 Feb 2025
Report by: Peter Wyatt

Strett discussed the use of ‘JAM CHUCKS’ to allow turning in situations outside the normal lathe chucks.

Theoretically there could be jam chuck for all situation.

Small Bowl Chuck

This can be used to remove spigots and finish the bottom of the bowl. The jam chuck does need to completely fill the bowl tightly with the tail stock needed to centre the bowl and hold it in place.

Larger Bowls

The same situation as small bowl

Internal Pointed Chuck

This chuck is cone shape with rubber around it and will go into hollowed out bowls, as in the photo. The tail stock must again be used to hold and centre the bowl.

Oyster Catcher

This chuck is made with spigots at both ends It is round with holes in each end to suit the item to be placed inside. The holes will need to reduce in size to take the shapes to go in. Strett uses this chuck to make his Oyster catcher, as you can see in the photos

Glue Chuck

Glue chucks can be used to support small to very large items for turning.
They can have spigots for attaching to the lathe or a threaded piece to screw the board to the lathe.
The items to be turned are held in place by the tail stock and then glued to the supporting timber plate.
This chuck is used in off centre turning, and for small items such as Deer antler buttons

Dowel Work and Finials

Strett showed us a jam chuck, in the photos, that can be used for turning dowel. The dowel is griped by the 4 piece plug that can be seen. Once centred by the tail stock it is tightened by pushing the plug in. The hole in the chuck goes right through to allow a length of dowel to go in.

Strett stressed that jam chucks are limitless, and he advised that he only showed a few to show what can be done.
He mentioned:
Box spigots, Pencil repair kits, All off centre turning, and all dowel and finial work.


“Keep all left over ends, and pieces as they will come in handy one day”

Club Meeting: 12 March 2025
Report by: Ian Connelly

John has been doing a variety of resin work to complement and enhance his woodwork. Not always with woodturning, but we will let him away with that on this occasion.

John used a EnviroTex Resin purchased from Rowe Advanced Materials, the particular resin was a 1:1 mix designed for tabletops.

He explained that colour could be added to the resin with dyes, and he had examples of both transparent and opaque dyes. He had also used copper powered and other similar materials to change the effect of the resin.

John favoured small pours, which meant that the bubbles were easier to manage. These he popped with the help of a small gas torch.

He explained the journey he had been on, with the mixing process of multiple cups, settling on a process of just using one cup.

He had also experienced issue where he was mixing by weight, but due to the differing specific gravity of the components this resulted in a sub-optimal result. He calculated the weight ratio as 1 to 0.88 for this particular resin. Bottom line – read the instructions on the resin.

Other tips

• Level the work
• Glue down objects so they do not move or float
• Seal the rim of a bowl with acrylic paint or PVA to avoid bleeding
• Thickest layer with this resin he was pouring was 3mm
• Blowtorch bubbles

John poured three objects during the demo, two open pours of clear resin to make “Rock Pool Art”, and also a third pour to an enclosed void in a block of wood, that he is planning to turn into a bowl.

The first two pours went without incident, John constantly remembering to go back periodically to pop the bubbles.

The third pour demonstrated the ability of resin to find the smallest of holes in the sealing material (in this case masking tape, with a layer of duct tape over the top) and escape. John was clearly expecting this as he had the object in a plastic basin to contain the pooling resin.

This was an excellent demo from John that stood in with only a weeks notice when it was determined the lathes were going to be on the truck for participation before the meeting. Everybody that was there would have learn something more about working with resin and the possibilities of incorporating it into your wood art.

Club Meeting: 5 March 2025
Report by: Graeme Mackay

Emma’s demonstration came through with a new approach to embellishing, with the use of a 3D raindrop effect and water based Suminagashi colouring technique. A bright introduction to the options of marbling. Emma’s demonstration and illustration of methodologies was cheerful and well presented, providing an easy view of how to get into the subject of embellishment through marbling and colour.

Key features of these embellishments:

• 3D water effect that requires a flat surface.
• A black painted surface on the lathed areas.
• Preference for spray-painted black base.
• Preference for acrylic based paint.
• Starting preference on the complimentary colours to be used.
• Clear contrasting areas dark and light.
• Use of colour wheel.
• Practise and experiment on water delivery and your application styles i.e. pipette.
• Awareness for drying times and requirements/equipment needed.

Illustration an example was given to encourage new entrants to conduct regular experiments. Also, use and record a trial and error approach on waste blocks etc. Emma noted that there were many ways to initiate and start the marbling embellishment process. And, there is a lot of fun in exploration.

Traditional Marbling.

Emma outlined the basics of paint on water marbling with an emphasis on colour choice. This approach is matched to the characteristics of paint material. An excellent introduction to the beginning marbling and highlighting of key points:

• Appropriate liquid base, Emma used Carrageenan.
• Appropriate colour variations and selection.
• Emphasis on method of alum application.
• Introduction to the basics of the mordant process.

Each section was given tips and directions i.e. use of a colour chart, working on complimentary colours, avoiding air pockets, and recording the style of application. It was interesting in that some topics appeared on a regular basis:

• Experimentation
• Trial
• Method variations tested.

Emma had an excellent approach to finishing the base product: surface presentation is essential. Working to the standard sandpaper grades is a normal process.
And remember: marbling shows up all the faults!