Club Meeting: 20 May 2026
Report by: Jacqui Oxenbridge

Yuri’s demonstration was showing inside out woodturning technique to place the shape of a heart inside the wood. For a beginner turner with NO spatial awareness this was all a bit overwhelming and I hope this makes sense! As for the “I have notes and they are in English…”

To begin, Yuri showed us a teardrop decoration and then showed us how to create the void – “straight-backwards”. 

First find identical sized straight blanks. Generally, these pieces are made from 4 blanks joined together but it is possible to use 3 or 6. 

The blanks are temporarily joined together then turned then separated and joined back together “backwards” to create the void. Finally, the shape is turned on the new blank complete with void.

In its simplest form:

             side view: top view: once temporarily stuck together turn out a semi- circle then separate and re-stick together to get a circle void

Remember to finish the “inside surface” before permanently gluing the pieces together.

Heart Shape Void made with 4 pieces of wood. 

Chamfer both ends of the blanks so that it will be possible to insert a chisel to separate the blanks. Yuri used sandpaper on a stick.

The blanks are glued together ONLY over a short section at the top and bottom of the blank so that they can be separated without tearing the fibres. 

Use PVA glue and paper. A brown grocery bag works well as it does not have a gloss surface and will absorb the glue.

Spread the PVA on the end of 2 sticks then put the paper on the glue. Glue the paper in the same way and then add the 2 sticks with no paper to the other side of the paper. 

Repeat gluing process at the other end.

Align the tops of the blanks and clamp together top and bottom – 4 clamps used in pairs at right angles to one another.

Once completely dry, trim the tail stock end if required as it is important to have a flat end.

Considering the new blank and how to turn it safely: one end will be placed inside the jaws at the headstock and is unlikely to blow apart. The other end needs more thought. If a live centre is used it is likely to split and separate the 4 blanks, so a Steb Centre is preferable. 

To make the tailstock end safer Yuri used filament tape which contains fibreglass strips (available from Blackwoods). To avoid the tape being cut by the blank he removed the sharp edges with sandpaper. Another important consideration was the direction the tape was applied in – wrap around in the opposite direction to the direction the lathe turns in to avoid it catching.

Now the blank is ready for “Open Heart Surgery!”

Because this is inside out turning, we need to keep the edges as sharp as possible – any wood that is knocked off the edge can be visible when the blanks are reglued backwards. If the edge is damaged, but can be repaired by gluing the piece back, this should be done.

With the parting tool cut the middle of the blank. Turning at 1400RPM. As the blanks are not glued in the middle a sharp tool, reasonably high speed and a light touch are required.

Cut a groove approximately 1.5 times the width of the parting tool (allow some clearance) down to 15-16mm diameter. Measure with callipers. Once at this diameter begin cutting the reverse heart profile.

Begin with the top of the heart on the top side of the groove. Using a bowl gouge Yuri shaped the top half – lie a very short cove that incorporated the 16mm diameter shaft.

To complete the second half of the heart required a hollowing tool to do an undercut on the bottom side of the groove. Remember to move the tool rest away so that the Swan neck scraper is well supported. It is important to cut deep enough that the heart will be in proportion.

It is recommended to sand with the lathe turned off. Repair any damage to the edges. Mark each piece 1,2,3,4.

Separate by placing a chisel in the chamfer between two blanks. Repeat on the other end. Then repeat on the two pair of blanks.  Be gentle as the blank is quite thin in the centre.

Rejoin the blanks rotated 180 degrees so see the heart shaped void, glue together with Titebond, align the tops, clamp.

When dry need to drill out a hole for the candle insert (cup) (required for safety compliance). 

Drilling in the lathe may cause the item to break. Instead put the blank in a vice, use a square to ensure it is upright, then with the vice tightened hold the blank at the top with an F-clamp or other tool (adjustable spanner) and use the drill press & a Forstner bit to drill the hole the required size. 

At this point it is easier to sand the areas that will stay flat around the heart void.

Now the blank, with heart shaped void, can be shaped – this is basically spindle turning.

Bottom end is in the chuck, bring the live centre up – can use the centre mark from the Forstner bit to align.  Remember the weak point in the centre and at the tailstock end. Use light cuts with a roughing gouge or spindle gouge. Make the top end round, add beads, coves etc. 

Once the top is shaped work out where you are going to part off and using the parting tool cut down far enough to allow you to shape the bottom half of the candlestick.

Can add texturing, frame with a cut then burn with wire. Can colour the textured area with a vivid marker.

Part down to around 5mm then cut with a saw. 

Sand the surfaces. Finish and insert the candle cup.

For a history lesson on Steb Centres, Forstner Bits and Callipers please speak to Yuri directly!