Date: 18 Feb 2015
Report by Pat Clay

Start off by turning a cylinder. Ensure that the sides are parallel. For
this exercise the cylinder was turned to 92mm diameter. Using
Pythagoras, the side of the edge of the cube can be calculated, in this
case 65mm.

Make the end of the cube dead square.

Using the parting tool, mark the length of the cube (65mm) from the
flat edge.

Using the index mark 4 lines down the length of the cylinder. Care must be taken to compensate for the backlash in the index. These lines will be the centre of each face. Mark the middle of each line.

Cut off the cylinder and mount between centres on two of the index
lines. The sides nearest the tail-stock and chuck can then be faced,
again ensuring that they remain straight. Mount the work between
centres on the remaining two index lines and face the remaining
edges.

More complex is cutting equal holes in each side of the cube. This is
known as a turners cube.

Date:18 Feb 2015
Report by Pat Clay

Joe showed us how to inlay the edge of a bowl with resin, on a
horizontal or vertical edge.

The starting point is a roughed out bowl. The dimensions should be
broadly correct, but the bowl will be turned again to even any
inconsistencies in the resin.

Where a repeating pattern or inlay is to be used, the rim must be
divided into an appropriate number of parts. There are a number of
ways to achieve this, one simple one is to wrap a string around the
edge and cut it into halves until the correct size is arrived at. Draw the design of the cutout on paper, which will allow complex shapes such as waves to be formed.

The trough where the resin sits is cut with a router, rather than on the lathe, as this allows for curved etc patterns. To do this, make a pattern based on the size of the segments. A few nails on the outside of the pattern will help position the pattern consistently. The router is used with a centre guide to follow the pattern. The depth of cut must be sufficient to allow final shaping and cleaning on the lathe.

Vertical edges need a similar router guide, but curved to sit on the bowl edge, and taped to hold it in place. If your lathe has an index, hold the bowl in the lathe to route the edges.

After routing the trough, apply sanding sealer and prepare the inlays.  Joe used fern tips spray painted gold to very good effect. These are glued in place in the trough, and will probably need to be held in place with tape while the glue sets.

For a vertical edge on a bowl, after the glue has set, close the trough
with wide (50mm) masking tape or packing tape, leaving a small
opening at the top to pour the resin in. Work carefully to ensure no
holes where the resin will leak out. Running a bead of hot melt glue
around the edge will provide an additional level of safety, but it is
important to make sure the lathe bed is protected from the inevitable leaks.

Pour the resin from one side only to ensure no air bubbles. Joe
normally uses Epiglass 9000.

Report by: Lindsay Amies
Club Night Demo: February 11th 2015

Our first club entertainment evening for 2015, also known as a demo, was presented by Master Carver Mike Davies and we weren’t disappointed.

Assisted by a power point presentation, Mike introduced Record Power, a Sheffield company with over 100 years experience. Lathes, M2 grade high speed chisels, an impressive dust extraction system and a wet stone sharpening system that really worked all got the once over.

We heard a little about Mike’s interesting background before he introduced the Six Techniques, the foundation skills for successful carving.

Mike went through the six techniques, one by one, explaining and demonstrating clearly the essential techniques for holding a chisel and making various cuts. It looked so easy. A sales pitch which wasn’t lost on members present was his one day course ($157) and a set of carving chisels thrown in for good measure, or that might have been vice versa, it didn’t matter, it was still a good deal.

The theme for term one is decorating platters and Mike came up with three straight forward designs that even the uninitiated could try. A point of interest was his comment that the carving working level needed to be at elbow height, to save your back.

A quick demo on lettering, a series of two cuts, just scratched the surface of the subject, pun intended.

Mike wound up the evening with a quick demonstration of the WG250 and the effectiveness of this sharpening system!

This was a quick moving demo sustained by a high level of interest from the benches. Expect a lot of interest in Mike’s One Day Introductory Course.

Well done Mike and thanks. A really good evening.